The Holga is good. The Holga is great. Yeah, we all know that more or less but did you know your Holga can do an glorious array of tricks other than just a 120mm shots?
Here, I’ve compiled a extensive list of creative ways to get more out of your Holga. Not exhaustive by any means, but will hopefully inspire a ‘what if…?‘ creative mentality.
[one] PANORAMIC SHOTS!
Yeah, that’s right Panoramic photographs from the humble Holga – there are a few ways of doing this nifty little trick but this is perhaps the best way of doing it reliably and it doesn’t require anything more than your existing ability to count to 20.
Begin at the LEFT side of the subject/scene/victim you wish to capture. Press the shutter. Wind-on for 20 clicks and ignore the numbers on the back of the film. They’re nice enough, have their place but not required for this so just forget about them better still black – tape over the window completely. Outta sight, outta mind.
Move the Holga to the right, shoot. Wind-on for 20 click click click’s. Move to the right. Frame. Shoot. Click and Wind for 20. Move to the right. Frame. Shoot. Click and Wind for 20.
So you should have 4 frames spanning across your whole scene. Looks cool but may require abit of practice to get the hand of it. How’s about trying experiments with a 360º scene!
[two] USE 35MM FILM + EXPOSE THE SPROCKETS!
Probably the best trick of em all for two reasons. First it looks uber cool to expose over sprocket holes. Nothing quite like it. Totally unique and again, super cool. Second, alot more photography Labs will develop the popular 35mm film format than the 120mm the Holga was originally designed for. So many times have I seen the look of ‘aggressive confusion’ from the photography technicians at Boots when I politely asked for a 120 roll to be developed. So, in that regard you’re more likely to discover expired film and actually get it processed (easier).
So, how’s it done? You will need…
35mm film. black electrical tape. scissors. foam.
Firstly, tape the beginning of the film to the take-up spool. The film should travel from left to right. Compare yours to the photo. That’s it, looking good. Place the take-up spool in first, this will go on the right hand side, then the film on the left – traditionally where the 120mm film would live. Now, your going to ask – “yeah, but the film will slide around?” and that’s a relevant and topical question. And I thank you for it. This is where the foam comes in. Stuff the foam on the top and bottom of the film so it fits all snug like. Again, compare it to the photo if your unsure. This should be nice a firm and shouldn’t wobble around with a prompt shake. Does it? Good.
Place on the cover and black tape that mo-fo up like you’ve never black-taped-up before. As 35mm doesn’t have backing tape, it makes it much more susceptible to light leaks and can get exposed from the back. Unless this is the effect your after. Just giving you the heads up.
Wind on for about 40 clicks. This will give you a fresh lot of film, unexposesd and ready to use. Each exposure will take 30 clicks to advance without over lapping of the images.
When you’ve had your 35mm fun getting the film out will require a darkroom or a changing bag. Take off the back and take out film and re-wind manually with the top – pertruding bit. Just turn carefully until it’s nicely re-housed in it’s container.
Take it to the lab (or develop yourself) and marvel at the coolness involved. You’ll be amazed and will be on the constant look out for 35mm film!
Check out the 35mm Sprocket Holes group on Flickr by clicking here.
[three] LIGHT LEAKS!
Holga’s are made of cheap and nasty plastic – extremely disappointing if you’ve paid alot of money for it! But the upside of this is the fact of light finding it’s way and making it self known by exposing unusual shapes and hues all over your film, especially if you use your Holga in bright light. It can can be a cool effect, especially if you use Slide film and Cross-Process at the Lab. Some love it. And it’s what Holgas have become known for.
How is it done? Super easy and you don’t need to make any modifications on your Holga. Simply use as is. In bright to very bright light. Load the film as you normally would and shoot away. It’s likely you’ll get light leaks coming in from the frame counter window on the back, the rims where the back meets the body and pretty anywhere where parts either move or meet!
Although, it’s worth remembering that no Holgas are not all born equal. You may experience a completely light-proof Holga, if this is the case, you may have to get your sand-on with a sheet of sanding paper and make a few ‘adjustments’ to the flushness of the back and body. It’s your choice.
Another way of getting light leaks in to your shots without any Holga trickery is to delay the time between finishing off your film and getting it developed. Leave it around the house. In light places. like a window cill and or table lamp. Light is pretty light-kly to seep it’s way in.
[four] FLASH OUTDOORS!
If your Holga has a flash unit built in, or better still have the multiple coloured flash dial too, why not try use the flash in the bright outdoors? Get the subject to move so their back is against the sun and the burst of light surrounds them, abit like the second coming. Flick the flash button and shoot. This technique produces a nice fill light and works best when facing the sun or bright light. Using black and white film? Try using the red filter for an extra shot of contrast!
[five] MULTIPLE EXPOSURES!
This trick is easier to by mistake than remembering to wind on the film. When I first got into Lomography with my Diana F+ I would ALWAYS forget to wind-on to the next frame and would expose one on top of the other. It worked out kinda cool, especially when taking action images. A before and after in one. As the Holga wind-on mechanism is your fingers you have a infinite amount of images to lay upon one another, just remember to not completely over expose as you’ll end up with a frame with nothing on it. Used well can create some interesting images.
